Brakes will certainly take a pounding and should be upgraded. As a minimum ensure you have race or fast road spec pads all round. Change the brake fluid or better still swap it for completely synthetic brake fluid. Adding braided brake hoses will further ensure that braking disasters are minimised. If you are spending money on the brakes also consider upgrading to bigger brake disks which are vented, drilled and groved.
Suspension.
Control is key, so a soft suspension setup will cause all manner of problems and create a stodgy ride. Obviously the optimum suspension set up varies from car to car and also driver preference plays a large part. It is worth getting suspension you can modify yourself so look for ones that permit custom ride height, stiffness and electronic adjustment to the dampers. At least you can play around until you find your optimum set up and you can switch back to a more road friendly setting for the journey home.
Suspension can be supplemented with strut braces for rigidity and also by switching rubber bushes for polyeurothane to aid stiffness. Set the front for negative Camber to give the front more grip and help with oversteer. The rears should be set with very little negative camber (virtually vertical) to reduce grip in corners.
Steering.
Ensure that your steering rack is in good condition, has no play and that the wheels are straight when the steering wheel is in its default rotation. A quick lock to lock steering rack is nice to have. Small steering wheels are actually worse to use so get an ‘old bus’ steering wheel rather than trying to look cool.
Clutch.
This takes a real pounding. For drifting get the heaviest duty clutch you can fit. Double and Triple plate clutches are good as are ceramic, brass button clutches but these are not always available for all cars. Various compounds are available. If you get a heavy clutch and your car has a cable clutch pedal make sure that the cable is heavy duty enough. (I got through 4 cables because the plastic retaining clip kept breaking, why they use plastic I will never know.
Body work.
You will crash and spin off. Impact with other vehicles and barriers is also typical especially as you are starting out. In pro drift championships the bumpers are secured with cable ties so when the inevitable happens the bumper rips off breaking the cable tie and suffers little damage itself.
Tyres.
Have you noticed that the main sponsors of drift championships are tyre companies (call me synical). You will get through more tyres than anything else. You’ll often overhear drifters talking about how many Tyres Per Mile they get through.
If you are starting out stick with cheap part worn tyres. (Don’t be tempted to go for remoulds.) Some drivers stretch small tyres on a large rim to aid stability. Some drives have different sizes (height and width) on the front to the rear. Look for low profile tyres as these are less inclined to roll off the rims under heavy sliding. Tyre pattern is a matter of individual choice I suggest that you chat with other drivers and see what they are using. Typically hard compound on the back and the rear tyres are what you will use more of. Tyre pressures also can make a big difference - experiment with different pressures to see how handling is affected as this varies greatly from car to car.
Car requirements
Any real-wheel drive car is suitable as long as it has sufficient power to overcome grip and has a Limited Slip Differential (LSD). It is much more difficult to learn drifting if the car is not equipped with an LSD which locks easily. A front-engined car is preferred, as they are easier to learn in.
- Supportive seats are preferable.
- Rear tyre pressures should be raised approx. 10psi from standard.
- Any traction control should be disabled! (and ABS if possible)
Safety
Generally, only roadworthy cars with MOT etc. are allowed to run at Drift Academy events and organised practise days, competitions etc.
- A fire Extinguisher should be fitted
- Oil & Radiator Catch tanks are recommended
- A battery master switch is recommended
- Front tyres must be in roadworthy condition
- Lights, indicators, brake lights must be in working condition
- Batteries must be securely fastened
- Brake systems must be in good condition
- Scrutineering may take place at some events
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